this piece makes me think that not living in New York and not being surrounded by beautiful fashion girlies is saving my gd life in a way I had not considered before
There is so much amazing street style in NYC tho that is astounding to watch. Like a girl I saw with long black hair- she wore a tore up ball cap, a giant Smashing Pumpkins T-shirt, basketball shorts, and a ton of silver jewelry. It’s hardly all The Row/ Toteme/ Miu Miu out there.
The cost thing sometimes feels catch-22, on the one hand the cost for many things are ridiculous, on the other if we want things made with fair labour/living wage, good materials, and well crafted, the labor/making alone is a cost, tariffs might factor in, and then the brand markup. Derek the menswear guy broke down the economics earlier today on Twitter and it well-explained costs using suits as examples. That being said, the profit markup for some brands is also HELLA WTF i mean i get needing to make returns but damn, 60% or higher is a little nuts.
I think the sad thing is that even with the expensive pieces, the brands are not necessarily paying a fair wage (eg Dior). So it’s just all feeding their fat margins.
this! I have to add, I don't think the prices are the only thing to blame. There are two sides to the issue, with the other here being WAGE STAGNATION. The real problem IMO is that our salaries have not increased in alignment with the cost of goods (or housing, or food, etc.). Of course, there are some really exorbitant prices in the high end designer fashion space. But there's a middle ground - like you said, there's also the reality of fair labor, good materials, etc. Working in fashion - as in the design, product development, materials sourcing, etc. spaces - NOT marketing - gives you some insight into how much things should actually cost. I have limited experience here, so my perspective is not totally accurate, but even from those small stints in these spaces and the fact that I studied design in undergrad so know the complexities of patternmaking and actually creating products, I have my own framework for how much I think things should cost. For instance, here's a very rough overview what I personally think is reasonable/what I would spend:
- woven separates (silk/cotton/linen) and sweaters (cotton/wool): $50-200
- casual dresses, heavy sweaters, & light jackets: $100-300
- occasion dresses & winter coats: $200-500
- sandals, heels, nicer shoes: $100-300
- boots: $200-500
- bags: $200-500
Caveats: I often spend less on these items because I heavily buy secondhand on TRR or wait for biannual sales. I sometimes spend more on splurge items that I really love. I definitely worked up to this, although I always knew these prices were what I thought was reasonable, I couldn't really afford to spend this much until I broke a $100K salary.
I think about this all the time. I started buying more pricy clothes (pricy as in, Madewell, Aritzia, Anthropologie) assuming that higher cost = better quality and likely fairer treatment of workers, but really, NONE of these things are a guarantee. I've started drawing the line on synthetics -- $70+ polyester sweaters, $200+ "vegan leather" (aka pleather lol) bags. These items just aren't worth it.
Jennifer Wang (@wangjenniferr) on Tiktok does such good breakdowns looking at textile quality and garment construction from different brands. She's so worth following. Also vegan leather drives me bonkers. I am excited though and optimistic about innovations in the mushroom/pineapple/bacteria process made leather alts.
I too have fallen victim to the lifestyle creep normalising insanely expensive clothes, “investment piece” culture on a normal even above average wage but even that doesn’t mean I can and should spend $900 on a jacket but I have 😬😭
I loved and appreciated this post so much because you brilliantly articulated so much of what I've experienced. There is a lifestyle creep wherein our favorite influencers start out with enough money to buy nice clothes, they gain influence, then they are gifted pieces OR make enough money as an influencer to be able to buy designer items then turn around and shill those items to their followers. As regular people deciding what to consume, it's impossible.
This is the third time I've come back to re-read this post, it's that good. The other element of this is just how many fashion influencers come from vast generational wealth. If you're a Carnegie or a Pierrepont I have no business taking shopping pointers from you.
I have to admit I was influenced into buying some expensive costume jewelry after seeing it on multiple influencers I trusted. When the pieces arrived, I was so disappointed. They felt cheap and almost plastic - couldn’t tell the difference between them and pieces from Zara which are 10% of the price!!!
Reminds me too of the piece with the photos of old white men, the investors and owners of most clothing brands. Man. I can’t hardly buy anything thinking of those guys and I’m so proud all that dough is staying and growing with me.
I used to buy a lot of clothes to stay fashionable and then I realised in my late 20s I could either continue buying clothes or I could save to buy a home. I still love fashion but every time I want to buy something I think do I want this sweater or a save for a bathroom reno (or just pay mortgage)
Great piece, I totally agree that influencers are selling us a dream that’s completely unattainable. I personally had to unfollow a very popular “shopping” Substack because I found myself rationalizing more purchasing!
I’m conflicted on the “we shouldn’t be paying $600 for a bag”, though. Obviously it’s important to spend within one’s means but we’re spending less of our money on clothing than ever before (assuming the trend described here still holds—it’s from a while back https://www.bls.gov/opub/ted/2006/may/wk5/art02.htm). I think the ideal version of myself is “buying less but better” with an emphasis on the “less” and focusing on what actually works for the life I lead (one where I have an office job and don’t want to baby my clothing) rather than what feels aspirational or like an attempt to align myself with an influencer leisure class. Curious for your perspective on this!
this piece makes me think that not living in New York and not being surrounded by beautiful fashion girlies is saving my gd life in a way I had not considered before
There is so much amazing street style in NYC tho that is astounding to watch. Like a girl I saw with long black hair- she wore a tore up ball cap, a giant Smashing Pumpkins T-shirt, basketball shorts, and a ton of silver jewelry. It’s hardly all The Row/ Toteme/ Miu Miu out there.
I think about this so often
Like if I lived in nyc the pressure to buy buy buy seems way more intense
The cost thing sometimes feels catch-22, on the one hand the cost for many things are ridiculous, on the other if we want things made with fair labour/living wage, good materials, and well crafted, the labor/making alone is a cost, tariffs might factor in, and then the brand markup. Derek the menswear guy broke down the economics earlier today on Twitter and it well-explained costs using suits as examples. That being said, the profit markup for some brands is also HELLA WTF i mean i get needing to make returns but damn, 60% or higher is a little nuts.
I think the sad thing is that even with the expensive pieces, the brands are not necessarily paying a fair wage (eg Dior). So it’s just all feeding their fat margins.
this! I have to add, I don't think the prices are the only thing to blame. There are two sides to the issue, with the other here being WAGE STAGNATION. The real problem IMO is that our salaries have not increased in alignment with the cost of goods (or housing, or food, etc.). Of course, there are some really exorbitant prices in the high end designer fashion space. But there's a middle ground - like you said, there's also the reality of fair labor, good materials, etc. Working in fashion - as in the design, product development, materials sourcing, etc. spaces - NOT marketing - gives you some insight into how much things should actually cost. I have limited experience here, so my perspective is not totally accurate, but even from those small stints in these spaces and the fact that I studied design in undergrad so know the complexities of patternmaking and actually creating products, I have my own framework for how much I think things should cost. For instance, here's a very rough overview what I personally think is reasonable/what I would spend:
- tees/lightweight knits & synthetic separates: $30-50
- woven separates (silk/cotton/linen) and sweaters (cotton/wool): $50-200
- casual dresses, heavy sweaters, & light jackets: $100-300
- occasion dresses & winter coats: $200-500
- sandals, heels, nicer shoes: $100-300
- boots: $200-500
- bags: $200-500
Caveats: I often spend less on these items because I heavily buy secondhand on TRR or wait for biannual sales. I sometimes spend more on splurge items that I really love. I definitely worked up to this, although I always knew these prices were what I thought was reasonable, I couldn't really afford to spend this much until I broke a $100K salary.
BINGO. The wage stagnation is also a big part, rising costs of production, overhead costs like...
What also rustles the jimmies though is high ass markup but non-fair labor wages/exploitation.
I think about this all the time. I started buying more pricy clothes (pricy as in, Madewell, Aritzia, Anthropologie) assuming that higher cost = better quality and likely fairer treatment of workers, but really, NONE of these things are a guarantee. I've started drawing the line on synthetics -- $70+ polyester sweaters, $200+ "vegan leather" (aka pleather lol) bags. These items just aren't worth it.
Jennifer Wang (@wangjenniferr) on Tiktok does such good breakdowns looking at textile quality and garment construction from different brands. She's so worth following. Also vegan leather drives me bonkers. I am excited though and optimistic about innovations in the mushroom/pineapple/bacteria process made leather alts.
This is an amazing piece.
I too have fallen victim to the lifestyle creep normalising insanely expensive clothes, “investment piece” culture on a normal even above average wage but even that doesn’t mean I can and should spend $900 on a jacket but I have 😬😭
I loved and appreciated this post so much because you brilliantly articulated so much of what I've experienced. There is a lifestyle creep wherein our favorite influencers start out with enough money to buy nice clothes, they gain influence, then they are gifted pieces OR make enough money as an influencer to be able to buy designer items then turn around and shill those items to their followers. As regular people deciding what to consume, it's impossible.
this was so good and I was extremely flattered to be mentioned!!
Omg duh!!!!!
This is the third time I've come back to re-read this post, it's that good. The other element of this is just how many fashion influencers come from vast generational wealth. If you're a Carnegie or a Pierrepont I have no business taking shopping pointers from you.
okayyyyy ily
Amen. Thank you for sharing this.
I have to admit I was influenced into buying some expensive costume jewelry after seeing it on multiple influencers I trusted. When the pieces arrived, I was so disappointed. They felt cheap and almost plastic - couldn’t tell the difference between them and pieces from Zara which are 10% of the price!!!
I love this piece.
Reminds me too of the piece with the photos of old white men, the investors and owners of most clothing brands. Man. I can’t hardly buy anything thinking of those guys and I’m so proud all that dough is staying and growing with me.
I’ll take the John Deere 🚜
So good! As consumers we get wrapped up in the smoke & mirrors of PR/marketing and sometimes lose sight on how to be more conscious.
Thank you 🤎🤎🤎🤎
I used to buy a lot of clothes to stay fashionable and then I realised in my late 20s I could either continue buying clothes or I could save to buy a home. I still love fashion but every time I want to buy something I think do I want this sweater or a save for a bathroom reno (or just pay mortgage)
"Dyson handed over $600 worth of product to a girl from central Virginia with 500 Substack subscribers only to flame them later for their approach."
you're kinda a legend for this ngl
For real
Omg needed this. Been browsing sandy liang like I don’t make $25 an hour
Such a good piece and also i have screenshotee this entire thing to reread when i feel like i should buy something new. Thank you
Great piece, I totally agree that influencers are selling us a dream that’s completely unattainable. I personally had to unfollow a very popular “shopping” Substack because I found myself rationalizing more purchasing!
I’m conflicted on the “we shouldn’t be paying $600 for a bag”, though. Obviously it’s important to spend within one’s means but we’re spending less of our money on clothing than ever before (assuming the trend described here still holds—it’s from a while back https://www.bls.gov/opub/ted/2006/may/wk5/art02.htm). I think the ideal version of myself is “buying less but better” with an emphasis on the “less” and focusing on what actually works for the life I lead (one where I have an office job and don’t want to baby my clothing) rather than what feels aspirational or like an attempt to align myself with an influencer leisure class. Curious for your perspective on this!